This post has been contributed by Blackkat101, with my thanks.
I do not own any of these devices but this information is invaluable to those who have them
As it so happens, the Tatacon to USB converter works with these commercial USB controller adapters:
These adapters can convert standard USB gamepads and keyboards to work with PS4, Switch and the XBox. Please note, native Switch firmware is coming to the Tatacon to USB adapter. If you are patient, it could save you some money.
ChronusMax is the original and has the most scripts out there to use (as it’s normally used for using one controller on another system, or creating macros/hotkeys/rapidfire/more). The TitanOne is a clone of the ChronusMax in literally everything, from the looks to the software (seriously, they just copy pasted everything….). The TitanOne hasn’t been around as long, thus there are not as many scrips in it’s library, so if you have one, you’ll be mainly making your own, or copying and (slight) converting them to work on the TitanOne from the ChronusMax library.
The software for the ChronusMax+ (and transversely, the TitanOne) is suuuper easy to use. Allowing you to code in normal programing language to a super simple idiot proof tile mode that is drag and drop and one with no programming knowledge whatsoever can use it to make their controllers do whatever they want. The TitanTwo is the newest device, having only been out for a year or so. For some reason it uses new scripts, so you need to convert TitanOne scrips if you want to use those. For some reason, they removed the idiot proof tile programming ability too…
NOW onto how it works with the Taiko USB mon made.
For the ChronusMax+ (and TitanOne), you need to plug this device into both a computer and your console. Thus something like a laptop (or a tablet that can run Windows/Mac standard software) next to your system and then the drum (treated as a keyboard) would then be plugged into the PC device.
The TitanTwo (much to my sadness) wins out because (while being a larger device, looking like a large plastic box while the ChronusMax+/TitanOne is a small USB device) it does not need a computer to go through when doing the keyboard. Do note that any other type of controller does not need a computer pass through for controllers. Just that the ChronusMax+/TitanOne need it for Keyboard and Mouse while the TitanTwo does not.
The Titan Two does cost more money though, so keep that in mind. It is also a partial device that has lots of expensive upgrades to get the most out of it.
ChronusMax+ costs normally $60 (when not near a holiday, for some reason when I checked right now, people want $100 for it on Amazon…. ouch…..) TitanOne costs usually $55-60 (so about the same, often times it is a little cheaper than the ChronusMax+ because of it being considered a cheap knockoff. It is the only one I don’t own personally though…)
TitanTwo costs around $90 for the base unit. If you want the Bluetooth adapter, you need to spend another $40, but at least it is an option for wireless play that the previous two don’t have. You will also want to buy an AC adapter if buying the Bluetooth adapter or using cables that are longer than 3-4ft or you will get lag from a lack of power. The AC adapter is a generic one (make sure you get the right specs) and will cost you around $15-25 for that.
I tried multiple other devices with mon’s USB Taiko adapter and it did not work with things like from 8bitdo or the Magic-NS from Mayflash. It does again however work with the previous mentioned 3 devices. I did buy all those and personally tested them all out. I am currently using the TitanTwo (even though I love my ChronusMax+) because I do not need to have my laptop next to the system. It did take a bit to get the controls right and then tweaking the in game settings for timing.
I personally set it up as so: (This is the Switch set up, but it’s pretty much the same on the PS4)
Left Kan = Z (default) = ZR (on switch pro controller)
Left Don = X (default) = Down D-Pad (on switch pro controller)
Right Don = C (default) = A Button (on switch pro controller)
Right Kan = V (default) = ZL (on switch pro controller)
As you can see, I didn’t change the default 4 keyboard buttons that were set as it didn’t really matter what they were.
I used the ZR and ZL (those are the triggers) instead of the R and L (those are the bumpers) as the ZR and ZL allow you to scroll through the song lists and difficulty, like hitting up and down on the d-pad.
Right Don set to A for selecting enter (obviously needed).
The left Don, I really wanted set to the B button and it would still register as a Don hit, but it would register in game as hitting the right side of the drum, which felt odd…. So even though I don’t have a way to go back with the drum, I set it to the down arrow on the d-pad (any arrow would have worked), so that it registers right when playing.
I have the in game controls set to register as Pro Controller setting 2.
I have a Switch Pro Controller also plugged into the TitanTwo (need a USB hub if using a ChronusMax+ or TitanOne) for controller authentication. This controller is then set next to the drum. Turn the rumble off so the controller doesn’t vibrate on the table the drum is on. Since you’re not holding the controller, that rumble on a hard surface is loud. This controller can still be used like normal, so this allows for Pausing and a B button to go back (but since I generally never need to do either of those things, I then rarely have to touch that and can go through the song list, pick my difficulty and play with just the drum.
I found that (so far) setting the timing of the on TV settings for the first bar to be -10 and the second bar to be -5 (the third bar left alone). Not near my Switch so cannot check what the names of the exact settings are but that’s what they’re set at.
So now you know that though doing all that you can use your Wii Taiko Drums on the PS4, Switch or any other system.